Tektronix 519 Graticule

Today I finally got schooled on how to use the laser in the model shop.  Frau_Farbissina_laser

As mentioned in a previous post, I drew up the graticule for my Tektronix 519 as a DWG for this laser intro.

The basic workflow is:

  1. make a DWG, using colors to represent different laser attributes (power, speed)
  2. Power up the laser, and use bed Z control and spacer stick to focus
  3. open the file in AutoCAD Trueview(?)
  4. Print to laser driver, which opens up driver app
  5. load the medium
  6. assign colors to laser attributes
  7. drag the print file onto the print area
  8. a few other things
  9. hit go

We used 1/8″ clear cast acrylic.  I don’t remember what the cutting power was, but the engraving setting was power of 8, speed of 1.  Keeping the power the same & halving the speed would result in a deeper cut.

We made two, just for kicks, and they turned out pretty well

 

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With the paper removed
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Compared to the one from my 551
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Closeup
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the 551 graticule stacked on top of the freshly cut 519.  Just different enough to be annoying.IMG_4367.JPG

Here it is, installed
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Not bad for my first attempt.  I’m going to build a solid black aperture plate next.

Waveforms 510-B Oscillator

I picked this up at a HOSARC Hamfest two or three years ago for $20.  The guy said it mostly worked, and it indeed mostly did. IMG_4286.JPG

I had never heard of this company before, and searches on the internet don’t unearth too much detail.

The unit works fine up to the 3rd range setting, but the ‘X1KC’ & ‘X1MC’ ranges were temperamental to say the least.

Time to crack ‘er open:
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A very compact design for the era.
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major components:
(2) 6AK6
(1) SJ7
(3) dual 20uf @ 350 cans.
(2) diodes in the power supply (non-regulated)
(1) ballast lamp

It appears to be an RC Wien bridge oscillator, with precision resistors on the decade switch, and a dual bank variable capacitor for the frequency knob.  Also typical of the era is the incandescent lamp as a part of the oscillator feedback circuit.  Basically, the gain of an oscillator must be exactly one to sustain oscillation, but in order to initially achieve it, a gain of more than one is required. The incandescent lamp’s resistance increases as it heats up, so when used in the feedback circuit, the gain can start high, then level off at 1 as the lamp warms up.  Good explanation here.

Here’s the output level control / power switch
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I yanked the knobs for cleaningIMG_4291.JPG

Tubes were tested
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It starts to clean up nicely
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Tube shields cleaned with damp aluminum foil, acrylic pointer cleaned with detergent, and took the surface rust off the screw heads with a wire brush.IMG_4300.JPG
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As far as the last two bands, a thorough cleaning of the switch greatly improved the situation, though the highest scale still sometimes needs a little wiggle.  I suppose I could entirely remove the switch and give it a real cleaning…

It cleaned up OK:
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Here’s the output through my Heathkit HD-1 Harmonic distortion meter.  Channel one (on top) is the signal from the oscillator, Channel 2 is the output from the distortion meter.  This output is the difference between the original signal, and everything except an ideal version of the original signal; a better & more detailed explanation here (same site as the previous link – good resource!)
My dumbed down version – this output shows where, in which direction, and by how much, the signal is incorrect; it basically points out where your waveform sucks.  An ideal sinewave would show as a straight line on the output of a properly tuned HD-1.  IMG_4301.JPG

In contrast, here’s the same setup with my Heathkit AG-9
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though timebase is different, the amplitude ratio is the same; the AG-9 blows this Oscillator out of the water.
Manual en route, stay tuned for more.

UPDATE 8/4:
Manual posted here

good page from a fellow boat anchor aficionado

‘Boat Anchor’ is an affectionate term used to refer to old tube gear, primarily radios and test equipment.

This guy has a great site dedicated to his collection & adventures in restoration.  I didn’t see any Tektronix gear, but hey, no one’s perfect.

Speaking of boat anchors, I stumbled across this site that attempts to humorously quantify the relative beauty of these old relics:
BABE (boat anchor beauty evaluation)

519 CRT bezel

My 519 is generally in immaculate condition, however it’s missing it’s original bezel.  It came with what appears to be a standard 500 series bezel, and some aluminum knurled knobs keeping it loosely attached.

I think there were two versions of the original bezel assembly, one with a camera attachment, one without.  Tim Koeth’s appears to have a the camera attachment (chronicled here), while the one I saw at Skycraft did not.  Check out this shot of his collection – he just may have me out oscilloscope’d.  Here’s the shot of the one at Skycraft:
IMG_4019

What’s interesting about this one is that the entries for serial, sensitivity, and risetime appear to be blank.  A few things to note about the 519 and it’s CRT:

  • There is no vertical amplifier.  The signal is passed directly to the distributed vertical deflection plates.
  • The CRT & shield are typically paired, in part to help protect the CRT.
  • The vertical sensitivity and risetime is individually characterized for each CRT at the factory, and is marked on the shield and faceplate.  They’re typically on the order of 10v per cm and 350ps, respectively.
  • The sensitivity and risetime are marked on the backlit faceplate such that it’s incorporated into photographs, like this
  • Because of the extreme speeds that this device operates on, the usable area of the CRT is comparatively tiny; 6cm x 2cm.  Compare that with other scopes of the time, which had an active areas of 10cm x 4cm, or 10cm x 6cm.

A little more on that last point.  In order to capture extremely fast events in real time,  you have to sweep the beam across the screen very quickly.  The quicker the beam scans across the screen, the less time the beam spends at any given point, and thus the less energy is imparted onto the phosphor.  To get enough energy on to the phosphor to make it glow visibly at these speeds requires tremendous accelerating voltages; 24,000 volts(!) in the case of this scope.  The trouble is, the more energy an electron beam has, the harder it is to move it around.  This is why the 519 ended up being a 100 lb beast, with sweep generator is driven by a forced-air cooled RF transmitter tube, a relatively dreadful vertical sensitivity, and a minuscule viewable area.   Another thing to keep in mind is that while repetitive signals keep sweeping across the CRT face, continuously refreshing the image, this was made to capture single shot events on camera (such as nuclear events), so the beam had to be bright enough to register on film on a single pass lasting less than 50 billionths of a second.

Back to my scope.  Here’s what it looks like with the bezel removed
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For kicks, I tried installing the graticule from my 551.
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That’s not just parallax.  The graticule illumination lamps and the notches on the plexi sheet don’t line up.
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Remember, this was bespoke machine, only loosely based on the 500 series standards of the time.

Upon closer examination of the CRT shield, I noticed mine is sadly lacking the sticker that proclaims the sensitivity and risetime.
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Other examples chronicled have a second sticker above this one with hand marked sensitivity & risetime.  I really don’t have the courage to pull the CRT from it’s shield to hunt for any other markings.

I went ahead and drew up a graticule that should fit:
tek919 bezel

This’ll make it’s way to the laser next week when I’m back in town. Stay tuned!

Skycraft!

On my way home from InfoComm, I had a chance to visit what I would highly recommend as a pilgrimage to any geek,  Skycraft Surplus.
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I didn’t snap too many photos, since I thought it seemed rude, but here’s a few:

Would you believe a Tektronix 519 was staring me down as I walked in the door?
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Sadly, not for sale (on second thought, maybe that’s for the best).  Serial # 000729.

Who wouldn’t want one of these?!?
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Isles and isles of hardware, fasteners, fittings, switches, passive & active components.  Drawers full of any little bolt, nut, washer, or standoff you can imagine, in a variety of materials.
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I need one of these for my Meth Lab.
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Don’t forget to look up
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Somehow, I walked out of here spending less than $50, probably because none of these would fit in my carry-on.
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Need wire?
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This is about a third of their stock.  I ended up picking up a few 50′ coils of some nice silicone jacketed hook-up wire, great for patch-cords.

And finally, I snapped a few close-ups of the 519’s bezel, since mine doesn’t have one, and I’m attempting to recreate it
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More on that effort in another post.

Programmable High Voltage Power Supply

The idea of designing a programmable, high voltage power supply came to me after hobbling together all of the gak that I needed for reforming old electrolytic capacitors.  There are a few good examples circuits out there for home-built reformers,  but none of them were exactly what I was looking for.  I’m into sure how digital or programmable I want this to be, but my thought was that if there was at least some logging capabilities, I could easily plot curves of the process and maybe tease out some interesting trends.

Without thinking too much, I’m going to spitball a list of possible features:

  • 0 – 600v DC
  • 10-20mA max, with current limiting.  20mA is probably a lot for reforming, but maybe this would also see use as a general lab supply
  • Current & voltage meters
  • Logging current, voltage setting, and voltage across terminals, with timestamps (rtc needed?)
  • Discharge resistor (variable ?)
  • Ability to set a maximum voltage setting, and automatic incrementing of voltage when current drops below a threshold
  • Voltage regulation?  This probably won’t have the effect I’ll usually want when reforming (i.e. I wouldn’t want the supply chase to match a target level),  so perhaps it wants to be disable-able,  if that’s even possible.

Some questions:

  • Form factor – rack mount gear is cool,  but often impractical 
  • UI – keypad entry? Menus? 
  • Meters?  Ideally analog, if possible, with switchable ranges.
  • Tube or solid state?

Research:

Heathkit PS-3 Power supply schematic – I feel like there may actually be one of these up at the “upstate home for wayward oscilloscopes” (aka, Mom’s basement)  as a side note, I also have an unbuilt Heathkit PS-4 waiting for a nice rainy day (or my retirement) </brag>

heathkit-ps-3-power-supply_schematic

This guy built a beast of a high voltage power supply

Repair log of a Heathkit IP-17
Antiqueradios thread on a Heathkit IP-17 repair

Side note – I’m trying to sort out the difference between blog posts, pages(or posts) about actual projects, and pages(or posts) about specific pieces of equipment, so there will likely be some organizational turmoil over the coming months.

To be continued….

 

Transistor Specialties model 1519 Pulse Counter

Taking a break from scopes for a change, I decided to examine a piece I picked up a while back.  Behold the Model 1519 Pulse Counter, by Transistor Specialties.

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I really can’t find much of anything useful about this product or company, though it looks like they produced a handful of counters during their seemingly brief life.

A side note: A quick search yielded this gem of a site – americanradiohistory.com which has scans of a number of old electronics magazines.  A trove of geeky goodness, I’ve just downloaded a heap of old ‘Electronics World’ issues from the 60’s for my upcoming 9 hour flight.

Underneath the hood reveals what you’d expect from an counting instrument of this era.IMG_3568-0.JPG

Two beautiful hand-wired looms connect the tube sockets to to the cards, one for each channel. IMG_3570-0.JPG

On the rear are some connections to allow each channel to be started, stopped, or reset remotely, as well as two honking 40 pin Cannon connectors I’ve never seen before.  I’m assuming they convey the current count somehow.  Maybe BCD? IMG_3567-0.JPG

There are 16 identically sized cards.  the first two are identical, the third one is unique, and the remaining 14 are identical pairs – I’m guessing a dual counter & dual driver for each of the 7 digits. Here’s one of the counter(?) cards removed.  This thing is 100% discrete logic; nothing but resistors, caps, diodes & transistors to be found in here.

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Note the card connectors, they meet with identical conductors on the ‘backplane’ connectors, which are rotated 90°.  They are similar in appearance, size & operation as the center contact on 125Ω GR-874 connectors.

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Update 6/9:  Kurt pointed out that these are the same connectors found on the cards of the 6R1, the digital readout plug-in for the Tektronix 567.  Do check out that 6R1 page, it’s exquisitely documented.

slots

This is a closeup of one of the two input cards, notice the thermally bonded transistors.
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These are all single-sided boards, with hand drawn layouts, and somewhat ham-fisted soldering. IMG_3574-0.JPG

This line filter appears to have been added much later.  Because the line cord had been cut, I tacked on an edison tail I had lying around.
Needless Disclaimer: this is temporary wiring for testing purposes.  Do not lick.
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Lets fire ‘er up on a variac.  Around 60v, it starts to come to life.  IMG_3581

At full line voltage, it’s stable. digits1

Hitting the reset button zeros out the displays.digits0

I couldn’t get this to trigger on any signal, sine or pulse, from the dozens of hertz to hundreds of kilohertz.  I started metering around on the input board, and there was gobs of 60 cycle that the incoming signal was getting lost in, so I started checking the caps with my trusty Heath IT-28 (which is really deserved of it’s own post).

The big-ass 10,000 uf cap on the low voltage supply proved to be faulty.  Though it passed a leakage test, it exhibited a very low power factor (which equates to a high equivalent series resistance).

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A smaller replacement was en route when I just so happed to spy a beautiful 15,000 uf cap of the same form factor at the HOSARC ham fest.  $8?  sure.

I’m still getting some 60 cycle when I poke around, but it’s now where near as bad as it was. Still no worky, the signal seems to die somewhere in the input card. I haven’t decided how much I care about getting that part of it working; I’m more interested in figuring out how to get it to display a number, and if there was a way I could do that without having to send the requisite number of pulses, that’d be swell.

installing and removing the input cards while running causes the numbers to increase, so presumably something is counting.  I still haven’t figured out what that shorter card in the middle does, but removing an inserting that has similar effects.

I’m assuming that each card pair is a decade counter and display driver respectively.  I might suck it up and try to draw out a pair.  I have some readings from the backplane, but I think I’ll pick up with that on the next post.

One more thing: as I was reading Kurt’s post on the 6R1, I realized that the circuit is probably very similar to the counter cads in the 6R1.  

Archer Power Supply Build

OK, so sometimes I search craigslist for:
Oscilloscope
Tektronix
Heathkit

Well this weekend I got lucky, and found someone selling some unbuilt heathkits for a great price.  He also had a few Archer 5V power supply kits for sale, which I’d never seen before, appeared complete, and were reasonably priced.  I bought two, here’s the one that I’m going to build.

In it’s original box:
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Unboxing:

Well, it’s clear how the manual was folded in the box.
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The enclosure and (stick-on) front panel was in flawless shape.
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The circuit board showed some signs of age.  One or two pads lifted a little while soldering, but nothing tragic.
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Components neatly packed within the chassisDSC_0709

Box-O-PartsDSC_0715

The Build

 

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The screw heads were proud of the surface, which would have compromised the front panel application.DSC_0734

And then I remembered I had a drill press and a countersink bit.DSC_0737

The manual suggests soldering the transformer and rectifier together on the bench based on a rough drawing, but given the rigidity of the wire and the tight dimensions, it seemed a better plan was to at least tack-solder the two together while temporarily in situ.DSC_0733

Transformer & rectifier permanently mounted.

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All other elements mounted.DSC_0742

 Testing

Brought it up on the variac with no troubles.  I was able to trim the voltage to 5.46V, and it held across a wide range of line voltages, without a load.DSC_0744

I was unable to calibrate the unit to 5.0V with the stock parts, so first I re-installed the circuit board with the bottom screws in the top holes, so it was easier to access. DSC_0745

Then I soldered in some jumpers in place of R2 and hooked up a decade box. DSC_0749

Then I soldered in some jumpers in place of R2 and hooked up a decade box.  1.8k would have put 5.0v directly in the middle of the trimpot range, but I didn’t have any so I got away with 2k.  I was able calibrate it to 5.0v, and so far it’s been performing without trouble.

You’ll notice that there are actually 4 terminals on this supply.  That’s because this is a ‘sensing power supply’, which allows it to compensate for losses in the wires from the power supply to the load.  The two sense lines can be of a much lower gauge then the supply wires, since they’re not passing any appreciable current.  They sense the voltage at the load, and are part of the regulation feedback circuit.  The regulator’s target is 5v at the load so if it’s gotta output 6.3v to overcome 1.3v of drop, then it happily obliges.

In addition to being fused both at the line side and low voltage side, it also has short circuit protection.

Oh, and here’s the schematic. Doc - Feb 17, 2015, 8-02 PM

I think this is going to be a nice supply for LED tape experimentation.

 

Tektronix 7834 Mainframe readout repairs

DSC_1001(attempted) Repair log continues below

Picked this up about a year ago, and used it solely with my then slightly misbehaving 7D01, in combination with the DF01 Display Formatter.  Because the DF01 was gen’ing all the characters, I never noticed that the readout feature was misbehaving until I went to use a pair of conventional plugins.

7834 readout

There’s a few things wrong with this:
1) The characters are incorrect
2) The top and bottom of the vertical plugin readout are supposed to be for channels 1 and 2 respectively, but they both seem to respond to channel 1 only.

Regarding the incorrect characters, it appears that from this table, the characters are shifted one to the left of what they should be. ‘0S’ should read ‘1V’, and ‘4m’ should read ‘5u’  Columns and rows are selected by way of a current loop between the plug-in and mainframe, using .1ma steps between 0 & .9ma.

Oh, hello:
rowmatch

“Score!” I thought,  but sadly turning it does nothing.  Also, my columns are the issue, not the rows.  UPDATE – Column Match doesn’t do anything either.

So I started poking around with my 7D20 and found something strange coming out of the U3433, the custom timer chip:7834 readout board

Note the often overlooked screen annotation feature on the earlier 7k scopes 😉

So there should be a negative going pulse on pin 16 that corresponds to the waveform on pin 10.  Also note that negative portion of the waveform on page 10 are shorter where the pin 10 pulse is missing.  I went ahead and ordered a replacement U3433, we’ll see if that does anything.  In the mean time, I’m off to the tek message board…

09/16 UPDATE:
Heard back form a gentleman on the forum:
1) What I’m seeing on the output of U3433 is not uncommon and due to display skip (which is described in the manual, I just have to wrap my head around it)
2)  He recommended swapping U3429 row decoder & U3418 column decoder – did that, no change.
3) He recommended swapping U3232 row data switch and U3263 column data switch.  oh fuck, those are BURIED.  Standby for some fun.

9/16 UPDATE:
The power supply slides right out, making U3232 & U3263 accessible.  Well played Tektronix.   Swapping them made no change.

Here’s the bottom of the scope – note the plastic rails on the bottom of the PS on the left.  One of those was loose and keeping the PS from sliding out.  Had to pop the bottom cover off to free it.
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resocketing a few of the transistors fixed the missing readouts on the left horizontal bay, and the upper/lower duplication I was seeing.  Now every bay has it’s readout, it’s just wrong.

9/17 UPDATE:
what’s supposed to be +4.4v on pin 9 into column decoder U3418 is only +3.84v
what’s supposed to be +14.5v on pin 10 is 14.8v

9/19 UPDATE:
Well, this has suddenly turned into a larger problem.  Yesterday I’d gotten some of the characters to change by paralleling in a decade substitution box.  Today I tried again but paralleled the wrong resistor (R3418), and I as was trying to pull the lead (live – dumb) I shorted something, heard a snap from the power supply, and the display went crazy, then dark.  I shut it down, and when I started it back up, U3447 started to release it’s magic smoke.
I can only suspect that one of the legs of the power supply has gone awry, but the power supply wont fire up when not under load.  I’m at a complete loss as to what to do next…

OK – moving on from despair…
With the readout board fully disconnected, the scope powers up and behaves normally (sans readout).  IMPORTANT NOTE:  When disconnecting the mini coax connectors, note that some of them have shield potentials of 15v, so take care to make sure they don’t touch the chassis.

9/20 UPDATE:
It was U3401 – zeros logic & memory.
I decided to swap out one chip at a time from the 7834 to the known good 7603, in order to asses the damage.  When I got to U3401, the same problem showed up on the 7603.  Total facepalm for not doing that earlier.  All other chips were OK, with the exception of U3418, the column decoder.  So now I’m down:
U3418 Column decoder –  tek part 155-0014
U3401 Zeros logic & memory – tek part 155-0018
U3477 7402 quad 2 input NOR gate – I only have an 74ALS02, not sure if that’ll cut it.

Replacements for U3418 & U3401 en route

9/20 UPDATE:
74ALS02 is fine for U3477, tried it in the 7603 (thanks David)

In retrospect, I should have suspected U3401 given that ‘>’ worked but ‘IDENTIFY’ didn’t, since it’s U3401 that signals the column & row data switches to run through the sequence of characters to spell ‘IDENTIFY’.

9/25 UPDATE:
After an in situ check of components around the affected areas, I pulled U3418 & U3401 from the 7603 and installed them in the 7834, held my breath, and power’d it up.  All good.  The soon-to-arrive replacements will make the 7603 whole again, though for now it doesn’t really matter, since it’s really only host to my 7D20 & 7D01.